Happy Birthday, Rich!
67.7 hilly miles
From Libby to Eureka, Montana
__~o
-\_<,
(*)/'(*)
Never imagined you could draw a biker with a keyboard, but somebody at Womantours did it. Anyway, day 12 was my least favorite of the trip. Drove out of Libby on US 2, then to SR37 for the rest of the day. Lots of false summits, coupled with Michelle’s description that it wasn’t a bad climb. Her usual knowledgeable, description fell a little short. Would you rather go into a tough climb knowing it would be tough, or with an understated description of what lay ahead? I decided I need to know more about it ahead of time to psych myself up. Before the majority of the steep stuff, we stopped at Libby Dam along the Kootennai River, after which it transformed into the dammed up Kookanusa Lake. 
We followed this all day, with lots of climbs that felt unproductive in terms of gaining the elevation we need in the long run.
At the end of the day, we stayed at the Ksanka Inn/Subway/Convenience Store/gas station/ fireworks store. Lots of long faces as we came in. Good dinner, then lights out around 8:30pm.
DAY 13
July 2, 2010 (Saturday)
Erueka to Whitefish, Montana
43.8 rainy miles
When we got up for breakfast under an underhang at the motel, I was surprised to see that a lot of the women were dressed in sweats and jeans and day-off clothes. Michelle was loading bikes on top of the van. Twelve riders decided to sag to Whitefish, and curiously, they were the most experienced and fastest riders, with nothing to prove. A dozen of us, either diehards or newbies like myself thought, what the heck. Andrea (a newbie who didn’t want to ride) loaned me her rainpants, I pulled on my rain jacket, and off we went, quickly getting soaking wet. Here's a picture of me duct-taping Jane's rain gear to regain its water-proofness.
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Turned out it felt like a great challenge. Had my first cattle guard crossing, which is a series of bars across the road for about three feet, each perpendicular to my bike, so you could sort of ride over them, but they’re about 5 inches apart, metal, and wet. We walked the bikes across. We biked a lot of the day on route 93, which had a shoulder, though a narrow one, and cars and trucks that went too fast. You really had to concentrate.
By the town of Olney, the weather cleared, and we turned onto Farmto Market Road, which was green fields, ranches, horses, cows – a flat land between mountains on either side of us. Just beautiful, and reminded me of Vermont. I biked with Sue and Laura for much of the day, and we seem to spend a fair amount of time together.
Here's a picture of me on Farm Market Road:
When we got to Whitefish, I had Glacier Cyclery work on my bike. It wasn’t shifting smoothly, so they trimmed the cable housing and also replaced one of the cables. (I sound like I know what I’m talking about). They also installed a new bike computer, since mine had recorded milage erratically, and was living on borrowed time. It had been snapped off the bike fork, epoxied, broken off again, fastened with zip ties, which slipped, and taped, all to no avail. While leaving the bike there, we explored Whitefish. The ski area looms over the town, and the downtown is full of Western style/décor merchandise I didn’t want or need. Saw one T-shirt I liked for $110, yet found it easy to pass up.
Stayed at a terrific, fairly new Best Western Motel, and Linda had chili and salad for us for dinner, with cheesecake for dessert.
DAY 14
July 3, 2010 (Saturday)
Happy Birthday, Mom!
Whitefish to Lake McDonald
41.2 sometimes wet, dark sky miles
We were to bike to Glacier National Park today, but the park is at mile 32 for us, and it has a regulation against bikes on the park roads between 11:00am and 4:00pm. So we walked back into the town of Whitefish to a craft fair in the park. Really a charming and livable town.
We left at noon, got rained on a bit, and met at the Alberta Visitor Center (the park is an international park with Canada) to gather everyone together, then biked along FLAT, gorgeous new pavement for 10 miles along Lake McDonald to get to Lake McDonald Lodge. What a beautiful area. Words and photos just don’t do it justice. The glacial lake is teal green, bordered by purply blue mountains, socked in by bluish grey clouds. Even in iffy weather, the place is so special.
Above is McDonald Lodge, and below are two of the massive Native American-themed chandeliers that hang from the lodge pole structural ceiling of the main lobby and in the dining room.
The Lodge is a registered National Historic Site, and inside are huge un-peeled lodge pole constructed beams. There’s a 12-foot wide fieldstone fireplace to gather around, and a comfortable balcony looking down over it, where I am now. We ate dinner in the restaurant in the lodge, with our tourgroup vouchers. I had trout.
We hang out at the lodge, but are staying in adjacent cabins and a motel, plain but nice and quiet.
DAY 15
Happy Fourth of July
NO miles today, still at Lake McDonald
Cloudy and rainy
Three of us took an hour long boat ride on the lake with about 20 or 25 people, so we could get good views of the mountains surrounding the lake, learn about the geology, and the history here. A hundred years ago there were more than 120 glaciers around here. Last year there were 27, and this year there were 25. Scientists are predicting that by 2020, there won’t be any at all. It’s the glaciers that carved all the mountains here though, so it’ll still be aptly named. Sad, though.
We followed this all day, with lots of climbs that felt unproductive in terms of gaining the elevation we need in the long run.
At the end of the day, we stayed at the Ksanka Inn/Subway/Convenience Store/gas station/ fireworks store. Lots of long faces as we came in. Good dinner, then lights out around 8:30pm.
DAY 13
July 2, 2010 (Saturday)
Erueka to Whitefish, Montana
43.8 rainy miles
When we got up for breakfast under an underhang at the motel, I was surprised to see that a lot of the women were dressed in sweats and jeans and day-off clothes. Michelle was loading bikes on top of the van. Twelve riders decided to sag to Whitefish, and curiously, they were the most experienced and fastest riders, with nothing to prove. A dozen of us, either diehards or newbies like myself thought, what the heck. Andrea (a newbie who didn’t want to ride) loaned me her rainpants, I pulled on my rain jacket, and off we went, quickly getting soaking wet. Here's a picture of me duct-taping Jane's rain gear to regain its water-proofness.
.jpg)
Turned out it felt like a great challenge. Had my first cattle guard crossing, which is a series of bars across the road for about three feet, each perpendicular to my bike, so you could sort of ride over them, but they’re about 5 inches apart, metal, and wet. We walked the bikes across. We biked a lot of the day on route 93, which had a shoulder, though a narrow one, and cars and trucks that went too fast. You really had to concentrate.
By the town of Olney, the weather cleared, and we turned onto Farmto Market Road, which was green fields, ranches, horses, cows – a flat land between mountains on either side of us. Just beautiful, and reminded me of Vermont. I biked with Sue and Laura for much of the day, and we seem to spend a fair amount of time together.
Here's a picture of me on Farm Market Road:
When we got to Whitefish, I had Glacier Cyclery work on my bike. It wasn’t shifting smoothly, so they trimmed the cable housing and also replaced one of the cables. (I sound like I know what I’m talking about). They also installed a new bike computer, since mine had recorded milage erratically, and was living on borrowed time. It had been snapped off the bike fork, epoxied, broken off again, fastened with zip ties, which slipped, and taped, all to no avail. While leaving the bike there, we explored Whitefish. The ski area looms over the town, and the downtown is full of Western style/décor merchandise I didn’t want or need. Saw one T-shirt I liked for $110, yet found it easy to pass up.
Stayed at a terrific, fairly new Best Western Motel, and Linda had chili and salad for us for dinner, with cheesecake for dessert.
DAY 14
July 3, 2010 (Saturday)
Happy Birthday, Mom!
Whitefish to Lake McDonald
41.2 sometimes wet, dark sky miles
We were to bike to Glacier National Park today, but the park is at mile 32 for us, and it has a regulation against bikes on the park roads between 11:00am and 4:00pm. So we walked back into the town of Whitefish to a craft fair in the park. Really a charming and livable town.
We left at noon, got rained on a bit, and met at the Alberta Visitor Center (the park is an international park with Canada) to gather everyone together, then biked along FLAT, gorgeous new pavement for 10 miles along Lake McDonald to get to Lake McDonald Lodge. What a beautiful area. Words and photos just don’t do it justice. The glacial lake is teal green, bordered by purply blue mountains, socked in by bluish grey clouds. Even in iffy weather, the place is so special.
Above is McDonald Lodge, and below are two of the massive Native American-themed chandeliers that hang from the lodge pole structural ceiling of the main lobby and in the dining room.
This is me beside one of the fleet of old-style buses that are privately chartered in the park. They've been updated, and run on propane fuel. There are also free shuttles, but these have convertible roofs, so you can look straight up at the mountains.
Below is the lake-side view of McDonald Lodge.
The Lodge is a registered National Historic Site, and inside are huge un-peeled lodge pole constructed beams. There’s a 12-foot wide fieldstone fireplace to gather around, and a comfortable balcony looking down over it, where I am now. We ate dinner in the restaurant in the lodge, with our tourgroup vouchers. I had trout.
We hang out at the lodge, but are staying in adjacent cabins and a motel, plain but nice and quiet.
DAY 15
Happy Fourth of July
NO miles today, still at Lake McDonald
Cloudy and rainy
Three of us took an hour long boat ride on the lake with about 20 or 25 people, so we could get good views of the mountains surrounding the lake, learn about the geology, and the history here. A hundred years ago there were more than 120 glaciers around here. Last year there were 27, and this year there were 25. Scientists are predicting that by 2020, there won’t be any at all. It’s the glaciers that carved all the mountains here though, so it’ll still be aptly named. Sad, though.
View of the lake from the boat dock (above)
Thought we’d take the park bus to Avalanche Lake and hike there, but it started pouring, so here I am in the lodge balcony. Someone downstairs is playing the piano: America the Beautiful, and God Bless America so far. Nice to hear on the fourth. One of our group, Vicki, bought us all patriotic temporary tattoos we’re supposed to put on our right leg. The pianist just finished playing the national anthem, and everybody applauded, followed by Happy Birthday to You, America!
I’ll remember this July 4th!
Thought we’d take the park bus to Avalanche Lake and hike there, but it started pouring, so here I am in the lodge balcony. Someone downstairs is playing the piano: America the Beautiful, and God Bless America so far. Nice to hear on the fourth. One of our group, Vicki, bought us all patriotic temporary tattoos we’re supposed to put on our right leg. The pianist just finished playing the national anthem, and everybody applauded, followed by Happy Birthday to You, America!
I’ll remember this July 4th!
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3 comments:
Lynn, you are amazing!! I'm so envious! When do you get to Fargo?? I want to come and greet you, OK?? Give me the date and approximate time and we'll make a plan. Keep peddling and enjoying the journey.
Hi Lynn! Your trip looks AMAZING... and slick, and cold at the continental divide! Keep it up,and when you get back I need you to teach me how to change a flat, and avoid getting one in the first place. I am not doing any where near the mileage you do and I seem to have a flat every other week. Keep pedaling!
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